4 Days in Edinburgh in Autumn: The Perfect Itinerary for First-Time Visitors

Visiting Edinburgh for the first time is definitely a once-in-a-lifetime experience — but visiting Edinburgh in autumn is even more rewarding. I can wholeheartedly say that Edinburgh is an autumn city. The whole landscape turns to shades of gold and amber, the air is crisp, and the medieval streets feel straight out of a fairytale. 

If you’re planning your first trip to Edinburgh, I’ve created this 4-day itinerary to make sure that you don’t miss the city’s most iconic landmarks, historic sites, local neighborhoods, and even the Scottish Highlands.

Whether you love history, museums, beautiful viewpoints, or cozy pubs, this guide will help you make the most of your time in Scotland’s atmospheric capital. 

Why Autumn Is the Best Time to Visit Edinburgh 

Autumn is truly the best time for first-time visitors to experience Edinburgh. I found that the city is much quieter in October than in the busy summer months. We explored the major sights without the crowds. The fall foliage adds a beautiful golden glow to the parks, streets, and historic neighborhoods, giving the whole city a warm and magical feel. 

The temperatures are ideal for walking, usually ranging between 8°C and 14°C (46°F–57°F), but the weather can also be unpredictable — it’s completely normal to have sunshine one moment and light rain the next. We were lucky to enjoy several sunny days during our trip, but we also experienced classic Edinburgh rain, which only added to the city’s cozy, atmospheric charm. And if the weather shifts, there are plenty of museums, cafés, and pubs where you can warm up and enjoy the season. Even the dramatic autumn skies create incredible lighting for photography, enhancing Edinburgh’s already captivating appeal.

4-Day Edinburgh Itinerary for First-Time Visitors

How to Get to Edinburgh & Getting From the Airport

Getting to Edinburgh is easy, whether you’re arriving from the UK, Europe, or further abroad. Edinburgh Airport (EDI) is Scotland’s busiest airport, with frequent flights to major cities worldwide, making it a convenient gateway for first-time visitors. 

Important: Check if You Need an Electronic Travel Authorisation (ETA)

Before traveling, make sure you get your Electronic Travel Authorisation (ETA) to enter the UK. The new ETA system applies to most nationalities, except for British or Irish citizens, so always verify the requirements for your passport in advance. The application process is simple and completed online through the official Gov.uk website, but it’s essential to have it approved before your trip. Completing it through the application on your phone is the easiest option and only takes a few minutes. You don’t need to print anything. 

Taxi or Private Transfer

Once you land, getting into the city center is straightforward. A taxi or pre-booked private transfer takes approximately 25–30 minutes and drops you directly at your hotel (depending on traffic). There is a taxi stand a few meters away upon exiting the arrivals area. We booked a private transfer through Booking.com, which was quick and comfortable. You can also use Welcome-pickups to pre-book your transfer. 

Airlink 100 Bus

The Airlink 100 express bus is one of the most popular options for first-time visitors. It runs 24/7 and takes about 30 minutes to reach Edinburgh’s city center (Waverley Bridge). Affordable, reliable, and easy to navigate.

Tram

The tram is another convenient option, connecting the airport to the city center in about 35 minutes. It stops at key locations, including Princes Street and St Andrew’s Square, making it ideal if your hotel is nearby.

Car Rental

Car rentals are available for pick up at the airport, but you won’t need a car for exploring Edinburgh itself — the city is walkable, compact, and well-connected by public transport. Consider renting a car only if you plan to drive into the Highlands or explore Scotland beyond the city. I use DiscoverCars to book a car when I travel. It lets you compare pricing and is very straightforward to use.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OwOKhiEcQA8

Day 1 Edinburgh Itinerary: Edinburgh Castle, the Royal Mile & Top Museums

(This is an itinerary I created based on our arrival time and interests, so that you can adjust it based on your schedule and preferences.)

Morning Arrival

We took the first flight out of Athens and arrived at our hotel in Edinburgh just after 10:00 a.m. — perfect timing, as it meant we had the entire day ahead of us. Whenever I travel, especially to a new destination, I try to stay somewhere I can walk almost everywhere. It’s the best way to get a feel for a city.

For this trip, we chose Hapimag Resort Edinburgh, a beautifully restored Georgian building that immediately sets the tone for an elegant stay in the heart of the city. The location is fantastic: just a 10-minute walk from Princes Street, and within easy walking distance to Dean Village and the Scottish National Galleries of Modern Art – Modern One and Modern Two.

We booked a suite of nearly 50 square meters, and it exceeded our expectations. The room had high ceilings, floor-to-ceiling windows, and a peaceful view of a small park — a tranquil contrast to the city’s bustle. Inside, the suite included a spacious bathroom, a comfortable seating area, and a fully equipped kitchenette with glassware, cutlery, a microwave, and tea and coffee-making facilities, making longer stays even more convenient.

Downstairs, the hotel also has a charming Honesty Room — a thoughtful concept where you can take drinks or snacks from the fridge, and write down what you took and put it in a little wooden box. The reception staff then adds it to your room bill.  It’s a warm, homelike touch that perfectly fits the building’s character.

Modern comfort in a historic Georgian setting — Hapimag truly made our stay in Edinburgh feel both elegant and relaxed. Check out the prices and availability for Hapimag Resort Edinburgh here.

Walking Toward the Castle & Castle Terrace Market

After leaving our luggage at reception, since the hotel check-in was after 3 pm, we walked toward Castle Terrace, passing the impressive exterior of Edinburgh Castle, perched dramatically on its volcanic rock.

We had planned our castle visit for another day, but it’s impossible not to stop and admire it from the outside — especially on a sunny autumn afternoon. It also crowns the city center, so you will likely pass it multiple times during your trip. 

Tip: On Saturdays, Castle Terrace hosts a lovely farmers’ market, so if you’re visiting on a weekend, it’s worth stopping by for local produce and street food.

Strolling the Royal Mile

From there, we made our way down the Royal Mile — Edinburgh’s most famous street — which starts at the Castle and stretches all the way down to Holyrood Palace. It’s the perfect starting point for first-time visitors, lined with historic buildings, traditional pubs, shops, and fascinating closes (the narrow medieval alleyways that hide some of the Old Town’s best stories).

A few atmospheric stops along the way:

• Johnston Terrace → Lawnmarket: full of cashmere shops and souvenirs. However, if you would like to pick up something unique, visit the Makers Market at Tron Kirk. It’s a great place to support Edinburgh’s local artists and pick up unique gifts.
  
• David Hume Statue: rubbing his toe is said to bring good luck. Hume was one of Scotland’s most influential philosophers and a leading figure of the Enlightenment, known for his ideas on human nature and reason.
  
• St Giles’ Cathedral: a stunning landmark in the heart of the Royal Mile
  

Just next to St Giles’ Cathedral, you’ll find the beautifully restored Signet Library, one of Edinburgh’s finest Georgian interiors. It’s home to the exclusive Colonnades tearoom, where you can book a luxurious afternoon tea surrounded by soaring columns and shelves lined with historic volumes. The library is also a filming location from the Outlander series, making it a special stop for fans who want to step inside a setting straight from the show.

Even a brief walk through this area gives you a strong first impression of the Old Town.

National Museum of Scotland

I’m very much of a museum person, so our first major stop was the National Museum of Scotland — one of the best free museums in Europe and an absolute must for first-time visitors. Museums in Scotland are free, which is excellent news for those who enjoy getting lost in museums. Some temporary exhibitions might have an entrance fee; check before you visit or on the spot.  

This museum blends modern design with a historic Victorian structure, and you can explore everything from natural history to world cultures, fashion, science, and Scottish innovation. 

We began on the rooftop terrace, which offers sweeping views of the city and is the perfect place to get your bearings. From there, we explored the Industrial Revolution and Industry & Empire galleries, where Scotland’s role in shaping the modern world comes to life through impressive machines and artefacts. One of the most striking areas is the dramatic hall filled with historic airplanes, a space that truly captures the spirit of invention.

Of course, the heart of the museum is the stunning Grand Gallery — bright, elegant, and airy, with its iconic Victorian ironwork. We continued through the Natural World exhibits, including Animal World and Animal Senses, which are particularly fun for families. And as we wandered, we even came across beautifully crafted pottery and a few unexpected treasures, like pieces by Picasso.

It’s the kind of museum where you keep saying, “just one more floor,” because every level reveals something new and surprising. You can easily spend a couple of hours here, if not even half a day. There are also several cafes inside the museum, so you can take a short coffee break before continuing with your visit. 

National Gallery of Scotland

After the National Museum, we decided to visit the National Gallery of Scotland, passing a beautiful view of the dark, gothic Scott Monument rising above Princes Street Gardens. The gallery is housed in a striking neoclassical building designed by William Henry Playfair, and its grand columns make it feel like a temple dedicated to art — elegant, timeless, and inviting.

Inside, the collection spans centuries and brings together masterpieces from across Europe. You’ll find luminous works by Velázquez, powerful compositions by Rubens, and the rich, layered colours of Titian, alongside an impressive selection of Flemish painters and celebrated Scottish artists. The layout is calm and uncluttered, allowing you to truly appreciate each piece without feeling overwhelmed.

What makes the gallery even more special for first-time visitors is that, like many of Edinburgh’s cultural institutions, entry is free. It’s the perfect place to slow down, get inspired, and enjoy world-class art in a peaceful setting right in the heart of the city.

Shopping on Princes Street 

Princes Street is one of Edinburgh’s main shopping avenues and a lively place to stroll, especially for first-time visitors. Unlike most high streets, one side of Princes Street is completely open, offering uninterrupted views of Princes Street Gardens, the Old Town skyline, and the dramatic Scott Monument rising above the trees. The other side is lined with a mix of well-known international brands (UNIQLO), department stores (M&S, Primark), and smaller boutiques, making it an excellent area for browsing, picking up essentials, or enjoying a bit of shopping between sightseeing stops. 

 Princes Street Gardens

Just below Princes Street sits Princes Street Gardens, a peaceful green space that stretches along the base of the Castle Rock. Once a loch that surrounded the Old Town, it was drained in the 18th century and transformed into one of the city’s most beautiful public parks. Today, the gardens offer quiet paths, seasonal flower beds, and benches perfectly positioned to admire Edinburgh Castle towering above you. In autumn, the trees turn vivid shades of gold and red, making it one of the most picturesque spots in the city.

Dinner at Rio Brazilian Steakhouse

We ended our first day with dinner at Rio Brazilian Steakhouse, just a short walk from Princes Street. From what I understood from our guide on the Scottish Highlands day trip, Brazilian steakhouses are pretty popular in Scotland. The experience is lively and generous — endless cuts of perfectly grilled meat served straight to your table, plus a well-stocked salad bar that even included sushi.

The atmosphere is warm and friendly, making it a fun place to unwind after a full day of walking. The all-you-can-eat menu is priced at around £50 per person, with drinks charged separately, offering great value for the quality and variety you receive.

Day 2: Scottish Highlands Day Trip — A Must for First-Time Visitors

Day two was devoted to a full-day tour of the Scottish Highlands, and it quickly became one of the most memorable parts of the trip. Even if you only have a few days in Edinburgh, joining a Highlands tour is one of the best ways to experience the wild beauty of Scotland beyond the city. It gives you a wonderful first impression of the country’s dramatic landscapes — misty mountains, mirror-like lochs, ancient glens — all in a single, scenic day.

Our route took us through Glencoe, one of the most breathtaking valleys in Scotland, and onwards to Loch Ness, home of the famed legend. Along the way, we passed through charming villages, rolling hills, and peaceful stretches of countryside painted in deep autumn colours. The scenery in October is truly magnificent — golden, moody, and cinematic.

For first-time visitors, I highly recommend booking a guided Highlands tour. It’s an effortless, enjoyable way to see an entirely different side of Scotland, even if only briefly, and it adds incredible depth to any Edinburgh itinerary.

If you’re planning your own trip, make sure to read the full article on the Highlands tour, where I share our exact route, highlights, photos, and everything you need to know before booking. Although it’s a full-day tour, it was very well executed.

I invite you to watch my video of this tour on my YouTube Channel.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S-y_764QXQ8

Day 3: Edinburgh Castle, the Royal Mile’s Hidden Stories & Holyrood Palace

On day 3 in Edinburgh, we dedicated the first part of the day to delving deeper into the city’s history.  

Exploring Edinburgh Castle

We started our morning with a full tour of Edinburgh Castle. To avoid the crowds, I recommend arriving by 9:30 am for the first entree. The Castle crowns a volcanic rock, and the view here is iconic. As we stepped through its gates, I felt as if I were briefly walking through Scottish history. 

Inside, we explored the magnificent Great Hall, one of Scotland’s finest examples of medieval architecture. Its dramatic hammerbeam timber ceiling — built in 1511 for King James IV — is held together entirely without nails, a masterpiece of craftsmanship that has survived for more than 500 years. The hall once hosted royal banquets, ceremonies, and state occasions, and today its walls are lined with swords, shields, and ancient weapons.

The Crown Room houses the Honours of Scotland — the nation’s crown, sceptre, and sword — along with the Stone of Destiny, all central symbols of royal power and coronation ceremonies. It’s a no-photography area. 

We continued to the profoundly moving Scottish National War Memorial, a quiet, contemplative space honouring the Scots who lost their lives in the world wars and later conflicts. The stained glass, sculptures, and inscriptions create a powerful atmosphere that encourages visitors to pause and reflect. The one quote that particularly moved me was from Exodus 19:4 – “I carried you on eagles’ wings and brought you to myself.” Photos aren’t allowed inside, so I could only capture this moment in my mind. 

From the ramparts, the views stretch across the whole city and out toward the Firth of Forth, and there is even a tiny Dog Cemetery, dedicated to regimental mascots. 

The St Margaret’s Chapel — the oldest surviving building in Edinburgh. Built in the early 12th century by King David I in memory of his mother, Queen Margaret, who was later canonized as Saint Margaret of Scotland, the chapel is a rare glimpse into Romanesque architecture. Its small stone interior, rounded arch, and simple stained-glass windows create a peaceful and intimate atmosphere. Despite its modest size, it’s one of the most historically significant spaces in the entire castle.

We were also greeted by a modern-day Robert the Bruce in full costume, who was happily posing with visitors and bringing centuries of history to life with a smile.

Discovering the Royal Mile & Its Closes

After the castle, we walked down the Royal Mile, stopping at some of the Old Town’s most atmospheric closes. These narrow medieval alleyways reveal centuries of stories hidden just off the main street.

We stepped inside Riddle’s Court, a beautifully restored 16th-century townhouse with colourful painted ceilings and a quiet courtyard connected to the work of Patrick Geddes, the social reformer who helped revive Edinburgh’s Old Town.

Nearby, Lady Stair’s Close leads to the Writers’ Museum, celebrating Scotland’s literary icons. We also passed Deacon Brodie’s Tavern, inspired by the notorious figure who influenced Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde, and wandered through Bakehouse Close, instantly recognisable to Outlander fans.

Inside the Blahehouse Close, you will find one of the Royal Mile’s more surprising and little-known historical doorways — the entrance to a 17th-century former brothel. Above the stone archway, you can still spot the carving that hints at its name, the Cock & Trumpet, a place that was once frequented by some of Edinburgh’s wealthiest and most notable figures.

Even Robert Louis Stevenson is said to have passed through this doorway. On the opposite wall, a series of reproduced pages from Ranger’s Impartial List of the Ladies of Pleasure of Edinburgh — a pamphlet published in 1775 — offers a cheeky historical snapshot. In a sense, it functioned like an 18th-century version of online reviews, documenting the city’s “ladies of pleasure” with surprising bluntness and humour.

We also stopped at the Canongate Kirkyard, where Adam Smith, the father of modern economics, is buried.

Along the way, I went inside Dunbar’s Close Garden, one of Edinburgh’s most peaceful hidden gems. The Garden is open every day except for Christmas. Tucked just off the bustling street, this 17th-century–style garden feels like stepping into another world — with symmetrical paths, neatly clipped hedges, and herb-scented flower beds that echo the formal gardens of the Renaissance. It’s a place many visitors walk past without ever knowing it exists, but once inside, the city’s noise seems to disappear completely. Unfortunately, as it was raining, I didn’t get a photo of the garden, but you can watch scenes from it in my YouTube video.

Just beyond the lower end of the Royal Mile, you’ll find the modern Scottish Parliament building, a striking contrast to the surrounding historic architecture. Designed by Catalan architect Enric Miralles, its bold, contemporary style features sweeping curves, organic shapes, and symbolic details inspired by the Scottish landscape. Love it or not, it’s an architectural landmark that reflects Scotland’s modern political identity and is well worth a quick look as you make your way toward Holyrood Palace.

Visiting Holyrood Palace & the Abbey

At the bottom of the Royal Mile stands the majestic Holyrood Palace, the official Scottish residence of the British monarch. The tour takes you through around fourteen beautifully furnished rooms, including the historic chambers of Mary, Queen of Scots. One of the most dramatic stories tied to the palace is the murder of her secretary, David Rizzio — a moment that still echoes through the rooms you walk through.

I underestimated the time we could allocate to the Palace, as I had made a lunch reservation, but this Palace is remarkable. I highly recommend visiting it at a slower pace. I would say allocate at least two hours for your visit. There is also a beautiful cafe on the grounds. No photos are allowed inside the Palace.

Behind the palace are the atmospheric ruins of Holyrood Abbey, a favourite spot among photographers. Its open roof, arched stonework, and gentle autumn light create a truly dreamlike setting.

Lunch at The Witchery by the Castle

After a morning rich with history, we headed back up toward the castle for lunch at The Witchery, one of Edinburgh’s most atmospheric and memorable restaurants. Gothic details, flickering candlelight, and a dramatic, intimate interior make it feel like dining in another era.

We tasted dishes like yellowfin tuna tartare, Puglian burrata, North Sea halibut, and the exceptional Balmoral Estate red deer — each one beautifully presented and full of flavour. It’s the perfect choice for a special occasion or a memorable lunch or dinner during your trip.

We had made a reservation in the main dining area a few weeks prior. There is also a possibility to come here for afternoon tea, which is served in a different room. Prices of starters start at £14 and mains at £30. Expect to pay around £100 per person (or more), depending on your wine order. You can reserve your table here.

Visit Victoria Street and Grassmarket 

After lunch, we wandered along Victoria Street, which is just below the Lawnmarket street, one of Edinburgh’s most photographed locations. Its colourful façades, graceful curve, and mix of independent boutiques, bookshops, and inviting cafés give it an unmistakable charm. Many people believe this street helped inspire Diagon Alley in the Harry Potter series, and it’s easy to see why — the vibrant shopfronts, the cobbled steps, and the slightly whimsical feel all add to its magical atmosphere.

From here, the street winds down into the Grassmarket, a historic open square framed by lively pubs, restaurants, and small independent shops. Once a bustling medieval marketplace — and even the site of public executions — it has transformed into a welcoming social hub where locals and visitors gather throughout the day. The dramatic view of Edinburgh Castle rising above the rooftops gives the whole area a cinematic backdrop, especially in autumn when the light turns soft and golden. 

Watch My Part 2 Edinburgh Video on YouTube

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4dPhII_Ma74

Day 4: Dean Village, Modern Art, Calton Hill & a Michelin-Star Birthday Lunch

On our final day four of our Edinburgh trip, it was my birthday — and we woke up to a beautiful sunny day. We began the morning with a peaceful walk through Edinburgh’s quieter neighbourhoods, heading first toward the Dean Bridge, which offers lovely views down into the leafy valley of the Water of Leith. From this vantage point, the city feels softer and more tranquil, with stone cottages, winding paths, and trees turning shades of gold in the autumn light.

Dean Village: A Storybook Corner of Edinburgh

Dean Village is one of Edinburgh’s most picturesque and beloved locations. It was once the centre of the city’s milling industry, and today it’s a peaceful residential area where time seems to move a little slower.

Cobbled lanes, old mill buildings, and charming stone houses line the riverside, creating the perfect setting for a gentle morning walk. I loved this area because it feels completely different from the busy Old Town — it’s quiet and incredibly scenic.

Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art – Modern One

From Dean Village, we walked toward the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art One, a beautiful neoclassical building set within expansive sculpture gardens.

The grounds themselves are a delight, featuring contemporary artworks, rolling lawns, and landscaped paths that are especially atmospheric in autumn. Inside, the galleries showcase a thoughtful mix of modern and contemporary pieces.

During our visit, we even spotted a painting by Picasso, a wonderful surprise among Scottish and international works (I share the exact birthdate as Picasso, that’s why you see me mention him in my posts).

Afterwards, we passed by Modern Two, located just across the road in another striking historical building. Although we didn’t go inside this time, it’s good to know that both museums can be combined if you’re planning a full art-focused day.

Calton Hill: The Best Views of Edinburgh

From there, we made our way across the city to Calton Hill, one of Edinburgh’s most iconic viewpoints and a must-see for first-time visitors.

The hill is home to several landmarks, including the National Monument, often called “Edinburgh’s Acropolis” for its Parthenon-like columns; the towering Nelson Monument, shaped like an upturned telescope; and the elegant Dugald Stewart Monument, one of the most photographed structures in the city.

We walked around the City Observatory, now transformed into an art space, and took in panoramic views over the Old Town, New Town, Arthur’s Seat, and the Firth of Forth shimmering in the distance. In autumn, the entire hill is bathed in soft golden light — a magical backdrop for perfect photos and views.

Birthday Lunch at Timberyard – A Memorable Michelin-Star Experience

For my birthday meal, we headed to Timberyard, a Michelin-starred restaurant known for its refined British contemporary cuisine and beautifully restrained elegance. Set inside a converted warehouse full of rustic textures and warm, minimalist design, the space feels both modern and unique.

We chose the three-course menu, which is rooted in seasonal Scottish produce and presented with a thoughtful, artistic touch. To begin, we were served warm house sourdough with creamy cultured butter, the kind of simple pleasure that hints at the quality to come.

Our dishes featured a stunning progression of flavours:

Red mullet with pink onion, tetra squash, and pumpkin seed — delicate and beautifully balanced.

Barra cockles with fennel butter, violet potatoes, and guanciale — a rich, aromatic bowl bursting with depth. These cockles are locally harvested from the famous Cockle Strand (Tràigh Mhòr) on the Isle of Barra in Scotland, where they have long been considered a traditional foraged delicacy. Their fresh, briny sweetness added a wonderful sense of place to the dish.

John Dory paired with brassicas, nasturtium, and unripe gooseberry — bright and elegant, with a subtle acidity that lifted every bite.

Pheasant served with blaeberry, beetroot, and Malabar pepper — earthy, seasonal, and full of personality.

For dessert, the comforting warmth of rice pudding with black fig and fig leaf, followed by a lovely combination of quince, vanilla, and oat.

To finish the experience, Timberyard also offers the option to add a cheese course from a small selection of Scottish producers — a wonderful treat for cheese lovers. We chose the Blackmount, made by the Errington family in Lanarkshire. It’s an unpasteurised goat’s milk cheese with a beautifully creamy texture and a gentle tang, served with crackers and preserves. At £9 per slice, it was the perfect final note to an already exceptional meal.

The entire meal felt like a perfect reflection of autumn in Scotland — seasonal and crafted with utmost care.

And to make the afternoon even more special, the Timberyard team surprised me with a handwritten birthday card and a little celebratory cake at the end of the meal. It was such a warm gesture and made an already unforgettable lunch feel even more personal.

A Fun Evening at Brewhemia

To wrap up the day, we booked an evening at Brewhemia, a lively pub and beer hall in the city centre. With live music, a warm atmosphere, and a cheerful crowd, it was the perfect place to toast to a wonderful birthday and an unforgettable trip.

At Brewhemia, we decided to try two of Scotland’s most classic dishes. We ordered haggis, a traditional Scottish savoury pudding made from minced meat, oats, spices, and stock. It’s one of those dishes every first-time visitor should try at least once. We also had fish and chips, perfectly crisp on the outside and tender on the inside, the kind of hearty pub favourite that is always delicious. Many pubs offer a cozier, more authentic experience; we chose Brewhemia solely for the music. I was recommended the Devil’s Advocate, but didn’t have enough time to visit it.

Final Thoughts: A Perfect Autumn Escape to Edinburgh

Our four days in Edinburgh felt like magic. From wandering the Royal Mile and exploring ancient castles to discovering quiet gardens, colourful streets, modern art, and the wild landscapes of the Highlands, Edinburgh offers an experience that stays with you. If this is your first visit to Scotland’s capital, I hope this guide helps you plan a trip that captures the very best of the city.